See every look from one of the buzziest shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week:
Author:Alyssa CoscarelliUpdated:Aug 8, 2019Original:Aug 8, 2019Perhaps Copenhagen Fashion Week's most buzzed-about designer Cecilie Bahnsen wanted everyone at Wednesday's Spring 2020 runway show to know she's capable of more than just the airy, cupcake dresses that have taken over street style, one tiered ruffle and sheer sleeve at a time.
"Before [my design team and I] even got to discussing inspirations, we discussed the idea of adding some masculinity and getting closer to the body," Bahnsen explained to Fashionista post-show. For a designer who often seems to let fabrics float as far from the body as physically possible — and consistently opts for a hyper-romantic aesthetic than a tailored one — this was a notable change of pace.
Of course, the suiting looks wouldn't truly have been Bahnsen without a sheer, flowing overlay to add her signature movement to even those more masculine silhouettes. As for the suits that stood their own sans overlay, she let her obsession with couture techniques shine by utilizing fil-coupé organza, which gives the illusion of a fragility almost comparable to first-aid gauze.
The collection could be described as a logical evolution without digging too deep into repetition of proven styles, or departing too far into alien territory. Though the suiting is a welcome next step from Bahnsen, one can't help but wonder why exactly she chose this season to introduce something for those not so fond of looking like a coffee filter.
After all, that very universe she's created the past few seasons is clearly doing something right — so why abandon it? She's giving the people what they want, while tossing out just enough of a taste of something more to keep them wanting to come back. Perhaps sooner than later, she'll be willing and able to further tackle the various categories of a woman's full wardrobe, but as we now know, not without her weightless, heavenly touch.
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