California rum distillers are making their own rules.
For centuries while the British Royal Navy vied with the Dutch and French for maritime supremacy, sailors were accorded a daily ration of high-proof rum — a tot — for their troubles.
But California distillers have the advantage of being, well, in California, where experimentation is famously welcome. At San Francisco tropical bar Smuggler’s Cove, owner Martin Cate is known for rum lists with hundreds of bottles, helping inspire a more-is-more culture among amateur collectors, who are often willing to try new things and splurge on unusual bottles.
Hallman, a Black distiller in a largely white industry, says there are only a few other Black distillers who are able to commit to handmade, grain-to-glass, premium spirits as he has. “Unless you’re extremely wealthy and it’s just another investment, you have to have a passion for this,” Hallman adds.
One of the craft rums Aivaliotis admired, white rum from Malahat Spirits Co., is made in San Diego. The distillers start with a blend of molasses and yeast from nearby White Labs . “It was about half a year of just trying every yeast and molasses to see what flavor profile fit the best,” said Ken Lee, one of the partners at Malahat. Malahat also offers a citrusy ginger rum, a dry black tea rum and a floral rum aged in California Cabernet barrels.
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