Although research on smoke taint in the United States began years before 2020, it wasn’t until massive fires hit California that year that the winemaking community here began to understand the enormity of the issue.
Oberholster said she has seen a boost in interest and funding since then. Most recently, in June, California Senator Alex PadillaSo far, some of the research has looked at what can be done to protect the grapes before smoke hits, like sprays. But Oberholster says the most promising solutions are those that treat wine made from tainted grapes through methods like reverse osmosis.Dr. Anita Oberholster, Ph.D.
“You really can't make the skin contact time short enough to completely prevent that from happening,” said Tom Collins, a wine researcher at Washington State University.“It'll probably have more smoke-related issues, but let's try to mitigate those after the fact,” he said. “If you make a wine in a lighter style, there are less other things present in that wine to maybe mask some of the impact of the smoke.
“We offered a bargain price if people wanted to keep the wine and didn't mind it, or we offered to give them a credit for the wine,” she said. “That ashy aftertaste is very hard to cover up,” Oberholster said. “And with aging of wine and as wine becomes a little bit less complex, that ashy character seems to just stand out more.”
Cahn describes farming as a form of crisis management, even under normal conditions. But she sees smoke taint as one impact of climate change that will transform the industry permanently.
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