Brace yourself for cabbage mania
in LA, where the exclusive Russian restaurant served baked cabbage topped with caviar. At a recent dinner at the buzzy new kaiseki restaurant Llama San in New York, I enjoyed a dish of cabbage with miso and nori, and found the restaurant also serves the cabbage-forward okonomiyaki for brunch.
And oh my God, have you seen thisIn America, the most immediate associations with cabbage are either in cole slaw, sauerkraut, boiled alongside corned beef, or the rough purple things you eat around in bagged salad; it also, of course, plays a starring role in Korean kimchi. But more people do appear to be approaching cabbage beyond the side dish, following a familiar path for the dominance of certain vegetables. New American menus from the past decade have seen the “discovery” that diners will actually order brassicas if you top them with enough bacon or cheese or crisp. Kale was celebrated as a “new” fad, though it’s been afor generations. Brussels sprouts were rescued from their role as a hated relic of childhood; suddenly, an order of crispy sprouts for the table had everyone in agreement. In some ways, cabbage is just the next in line to the throne, featuring the same tough and toothsome greenery that can be doused in cheese and fat, and without sounding as overplayed as “kale chips with parmesan.” Cabbage has also been bolstered by the popularity of kimchi, which itself has come from the slow mainstreaming in the U.S. of Korean cuisine and culture through the likes of David Chang, Roy Choi, and honestly BTS. Korean-American restaurants have dotted national Best Of lists in the past few years, all featuring cabbage more prominently than your typical handmade pasta restaurant, and kimchi is an increasingly accessible condiment for non-Koreans.
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