London Fashion Week’s designers made a case for business and pleasure with grownup and arty collections.
, and 16Arlington’s literal take on chocolate brown with a coffee granule floor. We think there is room for the traditional show format to grow and evolve into a new era that centers around the customer shopping the collections.The ’90s is the biggest mood we’ve seen dominate so far, followed closely by gothic and punk undertones, which came through in London with Burberry, Simone [Rocha] and Erdem.Eveningwear has a new mood.
This season Simone Rocha showed a beautiful collection that harnessed a deep and meaningful romance with her Irish heritage and the feeling of seasons changing. Simone Rocha has a masterful knack for tapping nostalgic spirit but with a modern approach. The show was an emotive experience bolstered by a live Irish folk band and its dramatic Westminster setting.
Daniel Lee’s debut collection for Burberry was an homage to the heritage of the house, signaling the mark of a new chapter for the brand. The iconic codes of the house were showcased in a new and modern way.Stealth sophistication continues to be a key trend this season with designers focusing on streamlined and minimal silhouettes paired with luxurious accessories made in rich fabrications and colors. Emilia Wickstead’s tailoring and the sleek sexiness of 16Arlington portrayed this the best.
S.S. Daley’s show at Here at Outernet was brilliant. Sir Ian McKellen gave a dramatic reading of the poem “The Coming of Arthur”by Alfred Lord Tennyson, which set the scene and the development of the collection. The ticking stripe, long skirts with cotton knit sweaters, and the sailor-sea-themed tailoring as well as the signature tie vest were all well-developed and elevated.
Nensi Dojaka presented a sultry, sexy, sheer lineup in a darker palette than in previous seasons. The barely there nude piece adorned in crystals and the flaming red gown are destined for red-carpet appearances.JW Anderson’s collaboration with Michael Clark caught everyone’s attention with some of the cheeky graphics of the week.It was an opulent, romantic and glamorous week on the London runways.
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