Breakfast at Ritz, couture fittings with Debra Shaw, and a champagne toast—a day in the life of ThomBrowne ahead of his debut couture show in Paris. Watch the full video here:
These are both the opening lyrics to Visage’s “Fade to Grey,” and a fitting description to the opening of Thom Browne’s debut couture show hosted earlier this month in Paris—except that the one man is model Alek Wek, and the case sitting by her side is a custom Thom Browne trunk.
“Andrew and I were listening to music, and this Visage song came up,” said Browne after grabbing breakfast at his hotel, “there was something about the collection that I wanted it to be a little bit somber and not as upbeat,” the designer explained. The narrative of this show consists of a woman waiting at a train station, watching couture-clad passersby as she ponders on whatever is taking up her mind.
One thing that does spark joy, however, are fittings. “It’s always the most exciting time to see the clothing actually on the bodies,” says Browne as he meets up with his design director, Thi Wan, to walk through the collection and start fitting looks on models.
The entire collection, Browne explains, was underlined by his now iconic signature gray suit, the building block of his business and uniform aesthetic. Each look offered a couture take on the intrinsically American style. Take a meticulously hand-beaded seersucker—which Browne & co. wore throughout this video —as an example of reinterpreting a staple of American sartorial vernacular under the lens of Parisian couture savoir faire.
After fitting runway superstar and Thom Browne favorite Debra Shaw, the next order of business is visiting the atelier; the closeups of feathers, pearls, and sequins being applied here are a true joy to observe. As Wan explains to Browne how the back of a grosgrain coat is being re-engineered, the designer offers a piece of direction: “Matching, matching is important”—nothing surprising coming from the man who has built a business based on the idea of uniforms.
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