In a world of plasticky water filter pitchers, I tested two of the new generation of stainless-steel filter systems.
I have been testing much different breeds of water filters for more than a year now, including reverse osmosis filters and water pitchers. But often, the big water filter tanks have seemed as much like status symbols as functional items.
They're good-looking in an industrial stainless-steel sort of way: an expression of a lifestyle and a stately point of pride. If you see a big gravity-fed filter, you know the person in question is serious about wellness, survival, or both. What changed my mind about these big stainless steel filters was microplastics. Most water filter pitchers are made of BPA-free plastic. But as new research shows that bottled-water drinkers ingest tens of thousands of excess microplastic particles, wellness lovers have begun to look askance at water filters that are themselves made of plastic. A newer generation of gravity filters has leaned into this, removing all—or nearly all—points of contact with plastic. And so I put a pair of these new-school filters to the test. The Boroux Legacy Water Filter System is a handsome gravity-fed filter system from a former Berkey distributor whose livelihood was disrupted by Berkey's fight with federal regulators . The Rorra Countertop System is a newer-school, celebrity-endorsed filter from a trio of serial entrepreneurs, with smart features that include sensors for both filter and water levels. In testing each, I assessed ease of setup, plastic content, total chlorine reduction, and changes to dissolved solids or pH. I also pored over each filter's NSF/ANSI certifications and independent testing results. Benefits and Detriments of Gravity-Fed Water Filter Systems Gravity-fed water filter systems gained their biggest prominence in the United States with a system called the Berkey—whose makers began in 1998 as a distributor for a much older filter system called the British Berkefeld. Amid legal troubles for Berkey , a newer generation of gravity-fed filters has risen to prominence. Multi-gallon filters like this are imposing beasts—as much statement pieces as water filters. They're big, holding a gallon or more. They live on your counter or your table, and take up significant space there. But because they are so large, they are difficult to fill and slow to filter. In my early testing, gravity-fed filters like the new Boroux and Rorra don't necessarily filter water any better out of the box than plastic pitchers that can fit in your fridge door, or in-line filters under your sink. And because they don't fit in your fridge, your water is room temp. But convenience is relative. The jugs on gravity-fed filter systems are big enough on an overnight refill to provide a day's worth of water for most families, for sipping and cooking and coffee. I find this can be easier than the constant cycle of filling and waiting that plagues smaller water pitchers, especially for large families, coffee lovers, or avid cooks. And whereas most water pitchers require regular filter re-ups, the Boroux filters advertise that they need replacement only once a year. . But especially, both Rorra and Boroux have shed nearly all plastic from their devices, especially in areas that come in contact with filtered water. Boroux, in particular, has taken the extra step of attaining certification for microplastic filtration. And so if microplastics are a main concern, the new generation of gravity-fed filters does quite a bit to alleviate these worries. Best Countertop Water Filter for Performance: Boroux Legacy Of the two new-school gravity-fed systems I tested, the Boroux is the one I'd trust most, across a range of criteria. It's the one with the most extensive base of third-party testing. It's also the one that has pursued international NSF certifications for particulate and microplastic removal, in addition to lead-free manufacturing. Third-party testing showed efficacy against chlorine, PFAS, and lead. And my own testing showed its efficacy in chloramine-treated water systems, reducing total chlorine by more than 95 percent. The water tasted good. And the Boroux is also the prettiest water filter system I know, which matters quite a bit if it's going to live in your kitchen for years. Boroux also sells supplemental fluoride filters, for those worried about fluoridated water. I wasn't able to test the efficacy of this, because I live in Portland, Oregon, the largest metropolitan area in America without fluoride in its water. But independent, third-party testing backs up these claims. One reason for Boroux's performance is simple: Boroux's filters are a trusted technology, functionally identical to the original Berkey black filters made with a mix of activated carbon and antimicrobial silver. In fact, they're made by the Berkey filters' original manufacturer, Clearbrook, which also separately sells its own filters. Berkey is not currently selling those filters. The company is instead embroiled in a long fight with the Environmental Protection Agency, which issued a stop-sale notice in 2023 on Berkey's classic black activated-carbon filters, saying the company's antimicrobial claims meant the Berkey water systems were being sold as unregulated pesticides. Berkey's maker, New Millennium Concepts, has since been fighting this order in court, but has also newly endorsed an Indian-made filter called the Phoenix that WIRED has yet to test. Berkey's stop-sale order left its distributors in the lurch, including the owners of Boroux. Boroux improvised, and figured out how to bring filters with the same formulation to market while complying with the EPA's regulations. The most simple difference is in the claims made by each manufacturer. Boroux quite carefully denotes that the antimicrobial silver in its filters are meant to extend the longevity of the black carbon in its filters, but doesn't advertise that the filters kill microbes in pond water or well water—long a benefit touted by Berkey lovers. Activated carbon filters work through adsorption, providing a tortuous and porous surface that causes contaminants to cling to its surface, including PFAS and chlorine and heavy metals, according to third-party testing by IAPMO. But this process doesn't remove beneficial dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium from your water. This means the water still tastes good. Reverse-osmosis filters, which zero out all dissolved solids in your water, often require remineralization to be palatable. Carbon filters like Boroux's have an additional benefit: You can scrub them and reprime if they clog, rather than be forced to replace them. Boroux recommends regular cleaning to extend the lifetime of the filter to a year. The downsides of the Boroux, however, are matters of convenience. Its 3-gallon filter system is not just big but tall. If you fill it in the sink, it'll be quite heavy and awkward to lift back onto a counter or stand. Unless you have a big hose, you'll likely have to fill it up with water pitchers. It's also slow, requiring more than three hours to filter a full 3-gallon tank. The system also has no sensors to warn you when filters need replacement, or when water is getting low. The system works best if you refill the water overnight. Best Countertop Water Filter for Convenience: Rorra The Rorra Countertop system is in many ways a wonderfully well-designed device. It contains sensors that tell you when to refill water or change its filter. Its 1.5-gallon reservoir capacity means it's small enough that you can lift it easily and store it in the fridge, but large enough you won't be stuck in an endless cycle of refilling. Its flashy, newfangled electrostatic nanofiber filter—a technology used commonly in air filters during the Covid-19 years to capture microbes—is also very fast, filtering water twice as fast as the Boroux. I won't call the device pretty so much as utilitarian, but ease is ease, and Rorra keeps it easy in terms of daily use. Unlike the Boroux, you'll never curse its size. You will need to replace the filters once every three months, which is a significant expense at $65 a pop, but setup is easy. Luckily the filters don't require priming, and can just be slotted into a waiting sheath. Setup with this filter system is as easy as it gets. But unlike Boroux, Rorra did not pursue full NSF certifications, instead noting that its filters were independently “tested by the NSF.” Such independent testing is welcome, but not as rigorous as the full certification process followed by Boroux for microplastics and particulates. Rorra also tested for fewer substances, and tested PFAS and lead only up to 200 gallons. This is about as much water as a family might use in three months, but it doesn't leave a lot of leeway for heavier water users. Filter replacement expense aside, the Rorra is nonetheless the gravity-fed filter that would fit best into my daily routine. And because I prefer to drink cold water but not ice water, I love that it's able to fit in my fridge. Power up with unlimited access to WIRED. Get best-in-class reporting and exclusive subscriber content that's too important to ignore. Subscribe Today.
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