Blumarine Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Walter Chiapponi presented his first outing as creative director of Blumarine today, replacing Nicola Brognano who, together with über-stylist Lotta Volkova, put the brand on the radar of Gen Z TikTokers, who fell for his unapologetic take on Y2K codes of dressing. Chiapponi comes from a successful stint at Tod’s, whose casual luxury is miles away from the dare-to-bare look Brognano and Volkova duo pushed forward, making Blumarine a social media sensation.
Chiapponi knows Blumarine quite well, having worked during the label’s heyday from 2001 to 2005 under founder Anna Molinari. That was a time when advertising campaigns were shot by the likes of Helmut Newton, Juergen Teller and Albert Watson, who gave a patina of glamour to its frivolous, boudoir-ish femininity—a sort of ante litteram coquette look with sexier undertones.
In lieu of show notes, a poem written by an undisclosed author was left on the seats; it spoke of a she/her wandering through the city at dawn, “her garments made by the city itself.” The collection had a delicate real-life pragmatism to it; modeled by a cast of diverse characters, it revisited Blumarine’s repertoire according to the sensitive, toned down Chiapponi’s ways.
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