'Billion Dollar Burger' Asks: What Is Meat?

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'Billion Dollar Burger' Asks: What Is Meat?
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Chase Purdy's briskly paced and bold new book explores the meaning of meat, its future and those at the forefront of developing cell-cultured meat.

What is meat? You might say it's simple: water, fat, muscle, connective tissue — you know, all that tasty-sounding stuff.

Meat, it seems, is all about what consumers are used to. For the sake of the planet and the future of food sustainability, it might be time to reconsider meat harvested from dead animals. If we're going to eat meat at all, eliminating the need to kill an animal that consumes food resources humans could otherwise be using — and that's also captive to an industry that pollutes the air and soil and deforests broad swaths of the planet — might be a good start.

Think of our cells as individuals on a building construction site. Some are assigned to lay cement, some are trained as carpenters, and another might be an electrician. Together, they work harmoniously to build different components of the larger structure. But it is possible to pluck a cement worker from her job, send her to classes where she'll learn about wiring, plugs, and sockets. Then she can be sent back into the field as a newly trained electrician.

It's the lack of heroes that, in part, makes this such an interesting story and topic. Tetrick knew from his early years that he cared about animal welfare and that he wanted to do something good for the world. He drifted through law school and still was unsure about a proper course for his life. He decided on cell-cultured meat as a cause and business because he saw opportunity and it aligned with his values — and so he decided to take it.

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