Big-Wave Surfer Garrett McNamara Found Stability on a Board

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Big-Wave Surfer Garrett McNamara Found Stability on a Board
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Extreme surfer Garrett McNamara, star of the HBO documentary series '100-Foot Wave,' on his many relocations as a child, channeling his inner daredevil and his plans to move to Italy next year

McNamara, 55, is an extreme surfer who in 2011 set a world record in Nazaré, Portugal, for the largest wave surfed, at 78 feet. He co-stars in the second season of the HBO documentary series “100-Foot Wave.” He spoke with Marc Myers.

When I was 1½, I was in a child seat on our dining table as my father prepared to feed me. He later said I used my legs to scoot across the surface to the edge and then went right off the end.

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