Even as restaurants fully reopen, I'll also keep covering pop-ups.
heritages. Her out-of-the-gate focus has been khachapuri, the soul-satisfying Georgian breads traditionally stuffed with cheese., with its famous tapered canoe shape and a molten center of salty cheese and egg. She thinks beyond the usual parameters with two variations: wild mushrooms and caramelized onions with parmesan and herbs, and a showstopper of lamb seasoned with khmeli-suneli smoothed with labneh and zinged with green chile pickle.
Pre-pandemic, Efraimov worked in marketing during the day — she was in the marketing department of Bon Appétit before moving to Los Angeles nearly five years ago — and at night she cooked on the line at places like Animal and Hatchet Hall. When she lost her jobs last spring, she packed her car to the brim and traveled into the desert and then to northern California before returning to L.A.
“Dacha is a cultural philosophy now,” she said, “rooted in nature, endurance, connection and an escapist sort of hospitality.” The connective part is key in Efraimov’s cooking: She thinks about bridging her mother’s Moscow upbringing with her father’s rural childhood in the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains, and about the East-West culinary legacy of the Silk Roads that passed through Georgia. As she’s studying the history of Georgian cuisines, she’s experimenting with new dishes for Little Dacha: an array of zakuski , a variation of stroganoff made with venison.
“It’s all I think about,” she says of her one-woman operation, for which she prepares the food and then delivers it. She hopes next for a residency somewhere — a regular slot setting up at a wine bar, perhaps, or taking over the kitchen at a restaurant on nights when the place would otherwise be closed.I like the idea of tearing into one of Efraimov’s khachapuris on a patio somewhere with a glass of orange wine.
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