Bertha's Revenge Irish Milk Gin review: A thoroughly original and oddball gin, made from whey (milk sugars), and heavily spiced. gin cocktails GandT
Mankind has long known and benefitted from the fact that, in a pinch, almost anything containing sugar can ultimately be made into alcohol. This knowledge has occasionally come back to bite us at times when people were desperate to make spirits–experiments such as turning the sugar trapped in wood into alcohol in the 1700s and 1800s resulted inresulting in more than a few deaths.
And indeed, that source of sugars doesn’t even need to be plant-based. Bertha’s Revenge, an “Irish Milk Gin,” has illustrated this quite clearly: Their spirit is actually based on, utilizing the sugars found in the dairy byproduct whey, leftover following the production of cheese. When curds are separated to make cheese, whey is the thin liquid left over.
What we are ultimately left with, then, is a pretty recognizable London dry gin, albeit from a genuinely oddball source of alcohol. One immediately wonders, how big of an impact will this have on flavor? Is there purpose to the gimmick? We’ll give it a taste and see. Bertha’s Revenge–the name is based on “legendary cow Big Bertha,” who lived to be 48 years old and gave birth to 39 calves in that time–is bottled at 42% ABV , with an MSRP of roughly $40. It’s shipping nationally via Flaviar.
On the palate, this is likewise quite spicy, with lots of mixed peppercorn, some pine resin, orange and then lots more of the cumin and coriander character. It’s not quite as omnipresent as it is on the nose, with some nice supporting citrus and juniper berry highlights, but those particular spices are still the star players here, and it feels perhaps a little out of balance unless you’re really searching for a gin to highlight those notes.
Perhaps more importantly, though, you end up wondering what exactly the spice focus has to do with the thematic background of the Irish Milk Gin. Perhaps there could have been a bigger focus on botanicals that reflect the dairy theming? Plants that grow in cow pastures? Parts of a cow’s diet? I really don’t know, but to have the flavor profile instead evoke Indian cuisine is something of an odd choice.
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