With a bittersweet cocoa powder filling and a crunchy crumb topping, kokosh is a Hungarian Jewish cake that predates babka and makes for the perfect treat to break the fast on Yom Kippur.
This Rosh Hashana challah is reworked from a long braid into a spiral to call to mind the cycle of life. It also incorporates apples and honey as a symbol of a sweet new year.. It was covered in crumbs, spiraled with chocolate and looked like a fatter and flatter version of a strudel, one of my favorite desserts. After I brought them both home, my partner and I found ourselves returning to the kokosh over and over again, for breakfast, an afternoon snack and dessert.
Various Eastern European cakes would seem to become “coffee cakes” with the addition of high-sugar crumb toppings or a mixture of sugar and nuts that creates a crunchy contrast to yeasted or egg-risen cake batters. This stands in opposition to the “fine” cakes that were uniformly smooth in texture and filled or glazed for dessert preparations. In Germany, crumb coffee cakes, or streuselkuchen, were and are still made by sprinkling a crumb topping over a basic yeast-raised sweet dough.
So, it seems that adding a crumb topping — something that’s not a given in all kokosh — preslicing and an extra gooey filling give kokosh that homey feel from the perspective of the bakers at Stern’s, which I find delightful.” by Stephanie Butnick, Liel Leibovitz and Mark Oppenheimer , kokosh is simply the Hungarian Jewish version of babka that is often baked flat and, sometimes, without streusel — this has led to kokosh’s nickname by many Jews being “flat babka.
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