Despite all the accolades, awards and glowing reviews, Salt in Lakewood closed its doors last summer after eight years. Speaking with Scene about the closure, chef-owner Jill Vedaa said, “This business is changing a lot; it’s something we’ve noticed the past couple years.
Despite all the accolades, awards and glowing reviews, Salt in Lakewood closed its doors last summer after eight years. Speaking with Scene about the closure, chef-owner Jill Vedaa said, “This business is changing a lot; it’s something we’ve noticed the past couple years.
The landscape – how people are eating and drinking – has completely changed." There are few wiser insiders than Vedaa, who has spent more than 25 years working in many of Cleveland’s top restaurants. But if you’re looking for a second opinion, you could do worse than Andrew Revy, who has been working in and around restaurants for just as long. That’s why, when Revy was handed the keys to the former Salt space, he wisely sidestepped any talk about fine dining, chef-driven, special occasion or multi-course meals that stretch on for hours. No, for his latest venture, Sofia’s Kitchen + Bar, Revy leaned into the pithy catchphrase, “Corner bar meets American bistro,” a riff that implies that this is a no-pressure, come-as-you-are joint built for today’s low-commitment guests. Many local diners were first introduced to Revy when he converted his family’s Constantino’s Market into Immigrant Son, Lakewood’s first brewery. Behind that brewery’s name is a story expertly told by Revy, one that weaves his family’s migration tale with those of many other families living – and drinking beer – in the melting pot city of Cleveland. Sofia’s is named after Revy’s daughter, who appears in a family photo that hangs in the main dining room. It’s part of the gentle renovation that management undertook when they took possession of the property in January. Most of the work was designed to lighten the interior, tone and posture of the restaurant while placing a little more emphasis on the lounge side of things. Sofia’s is the type of place where neighbors should feel comfortable popping into the bar for a glass of wine and plate of deviled eggs while catching the first couple innings of the Guards game. We sat in the dining room and enjoyed those creamy, black pepper-spiked eggs alongside a bottle of Chateau La Freynelle Bordeaux Blanc . The wine list is the first sign that Sofia’s strives to be a cut above most “corner bars.” There are more than two dozen by-the-glass pours and many, many more by the bottle, including gems from less-trod regions around the globe. Chef Andy Strizak, a name dating back to Parker's American Bistro, introduces subtle nods to distant cuisines without being cheeky or heavy handed. The chickpea battered veggies conjure Indian pakoras, but these lack the characteristic crunch. A fragrant cumin-spiced yogurt dipping sauce is served on the side. A cross between poutine and Shepherd’s Pie, the Shepard’s Fries tops tender fingerling potatoes with a rich and meaty lamb stew studded with peas, carrots and a woefully small amount of cheese curds. It’s a hearty, delicious knife-and-fork appetizer more than it is shareable finger food. Had we looked a little closer before ordering – or, perhaps, been alerted to the fact by our server – we would not have ordered both the Shepard’s Fries and the pappardelle given that the latter featured a similar lamb-pea-carrot ragu. The al dente Ohio City Pasta noodles were the perfect vehicle for the robust sauce. What’s billed as a “pork prime rib” is a three-finger-thick, bone-in loin chop that is slow-roasted rather than grilled. The result is a consistent edge-to-center cook and firm, toothsome texture. A flavorsome au jus washes over the pork, mashed potatoes and sauteed spinach. It's appalling how few lamb burgers are served at Cleveland restaurants, but we can thank Strizak for fighting the good fight. His is topped with Swiss and tzatziki sauce and served on a brioche bun alongside crispy fingerlings. The kitchen had a gentle touch when preparing a cod special , leaving it lush, sweet and flaky. Sofia’s manages to offer “something for everyone” while avoiding the pedestrian pitfall. In place of chicken breasts there are spice-rubbed thighs. Instead of a French dip there is a pork dip sandwich with shaved pork, cheddar and sidecar of au jus. For a vegetarian pasta option there’s the sesame noodle salad made with Ohio City Pasta udon. As an early Parker Bosley disciple, Strizak goes the extra mile to use local meats, produce, dairy and pasta. In addition to the wine and classic and seasonal cocktails, the restaurant stocks one and only brand of beer, Immigrant Son Brewing, which Revy unabashedly calls “the best award-winning local beer around.”For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.
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