Meet Belgian designer, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, a newcomer on the Paris fashion scene.
The designer made her Paris debut in what she called a “soulless” conference room. This arguably male domain was a foil for her sophisticated women’s designs, which might have read as bougie if there weren’t something so “off” about them, like jackets with small shoulders that slanted toward the chest, strange geometric silhouettes, and the collection’s hero pieces—coats with standing lapels.
Although there is a reversible skirt and a pair of boots that can be adapted with zippers, the deconstruction engaged in here was mostly playful and conceptual. There’s been a lot of discussion about the female gaze as it applies to “sexy” dressing; Adam-Leenaerdt seemed to be turning hers to ideas around femininity and propriety. This is a very covered-up collection that reconstructs a woman’s curves into geometries of enveloping drapes, with proportions either blown-up or shrunken.
But while Cristóbal Balenciaga was concerned with pure form, and Demna, in the past, liked to position his designs within grand narratives relating to climate, politics, and his own autobiography, there’s a deliberate domestic aspect to Adam-Leenaerdt’s work. Women have often been relegated to the home, but she wants to transform and celebrate ordinary aspects of life—“to reveal the beauty in the ‘has-been’ elements of the daily world, to divert them, to have fun with them.
Her aim, it seems, is to make us engage with what is immediately around us, by taking something known, a code or a silhouette, and giving it a subtle strangeness that makes you stop and adjust your vision.
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