Daily News | At Gass & Main, chef Dane DeMarco mines nostalgia for its power of reinvention
2022), married longtime fiancé Sierra Lander in Vegas , had a baby named Indigo, changed names to Dane, and came out as non-binary.
Lead server Kyle Massi, the most enthusiastic non-resident Haddonfield booster I’ve ever met, came with the space as a warm holdover from the Valente’s. The rest of this room was redecorated with farm tools, tchatchkes and artifacts — horse collars, ice picks, vintage photos — from DeMarco’s the childhood living on Peartree Lane.
The real fun at Gass & Main, though, lies beyond those upscaled grill house icons. DeMarco, a self-professed “lover of old lady food,” has turned to a collection of vintage American cookbooks, from Betty Crocker to the Time-Life Series, to fuel an imagination that borrows liberally from those crinkled pages and revives some out-of-fashion highlights with a wink.
The chef’s contemporary instincts are obvious in the creative energy devoted to vegan offerings, from a winter flauta with celery root and sweet potatoes, to an artichoke cake meant to evoke crab, but served with vegan hollandaise.
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