The shoulder season reveals a softer, quieter city where you’ll find centuries worth of history, beautiful architecture, and simpler pleasures.
ay the name “Cannes” and what likely comes to mind is a chaotic montage of paparazzi, glacier-sized bling, ostentatious superyachts, and entertainment royalty from Grace Kelly to Tom Cruise swanning around the fabled Croisette en route to a gala premier.
A stroll through the Le Suquet neighborhood reveals vestiges of the city’s earlier days. Several blocks inland from the Croisette, the tangle of steep cobblestone streets, narrow alleyways, and cats lounging around on front steps reminded me of some of southern Tuscany’s hill towns. With a population of less than 75,000 people, Cannes too is more like a large town than a city. It just doesn’t feel that way when you’re shoulder-to-shoulder with throngs of fellow travelers.
The city’s magnificent Grand Hotel was replaced with a midcentury monstrosity in the ’60s, but its circa-1864 pavilion lives on in the form of athat has exhibited works by legends like Picasso and Matisse, as well as by present-day artists. The space was sadly undergoing a revamp during my visit, but will reopen next year with the addition of a tea room with panoramic views.
The Majestic is booked solid during the festival when the film world fills its ocean-front suites and private beach, but when I arrived the sky was overcast and the hotel was devoid of high-season crowds. I feasted on scallops with truffle cream sauce at their seaside Mademoiselle Gray restaurant, which sits on a private beach and turns out surf-and-turf dishes with a Mediterranean influence set to electro ambient beats, giving it a swanky beach cabana vibe.
My drink was served in a champagne flute, but the lowball glasses nearby—some with a slight tilt, others with rims that cave inwards like melted wax—caught my eye. The latter’s surreal shape was created to better capture the aroma’s of Balestra’s creations and aren’t for sale, but it’s possible to visit the factory where Balestra had them custom-designed. A tiny village of less than 10,000 inhabitants, Biot is about a 20-minute drive from Cannes and is considered France’s glass capital.
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