Alex Fury delves into the designer’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Burberry, staged in a tent pitched in London’s Highbury Fields
pitched its checkered tent literally in the middle of Highbury Fields, a leafy few hectares in north London – and, ideologically Daniel Lee pitched this Burberry collection as an encapsulation of the great outdoors. The sides of the tent were open, to let fresh air – and a few insects – circulate around the enclosure. The audience sat on park benches, and the floor underfoot was green, pleasant.
Systems and rules are also inherently British – the trench was born out of a uniform itself, after all. There were direct nods elsewhere with frogging and ceremonial gold buttons, but also winks to the idea of everyday uniforms.
That hardware also spoke of the outdoors – rock climbing, extreme sports pursuits, the kind of stuff you may be doing after you clamber out of a tent . Which is also why designs were strewn with garden flowers and summer fruits, redolent of garden parties and fetes, the other lighter-hearted reason you may be stumbling out of a tent bleary-eyed some morning.
The whole notion of Burberry – for Lee, and in wider culture – is to connect with ideas of Britishness and, to a degree, to export them around the world. Lee’s work both embraces and explodes clichés – the re-branding of Bond Street tube as ‘Burberry Street’ being a prime example of harnessing globally-recognised markers of the country, and allying them inextricably to Burberry.
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