As we approach a new decade, designers are rediscovering the simpler pleasures of working without the demands of running a huge house—designer downsizing, if you like.
Looking back on all this, Marco Zanini, who left Rochas in 2013 for Schiaparelli before leaving that house a year later, has developed a sense of fatigue and disconnect from the whole thing. “Now I don’t follow what’s happening, because I don’t really care,” Zanini said. “Too many designers have come and gone. It has become impossible to keep up, to know who is where now. Who’s at Carven? I don’t know. Who’s at Ricci? Don’t ask me.
By the time he had arrived at Oscar de la Renta from Ricci in 2015 he was, he recalled, doing six collections a year: “Two runway, two pre-collection, two bridal. There wasn’t time to think about things properly. You’d end up signing off on things you might not be 100 percent happy with. That’s not helping the fashion industry. It’s not conducive to developing fantastic product.
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