‘Anything can be edible’: how Italians are making a meal of invasive crabs

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‘Anything can be edible’: how Italians are making a meal of invasive crabs
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Blue crabs with no natural predators have been disrupting prized shellfish populations on Italy’s coast. So revenge is on the menu

Rosario, a stallholder in Catania’s fish market, says people seem to like the delicate taste of Atlantic blue crabs. Photograph: Kate Stanworth

The Salamone family sell all the usual local specialities in their slick new business “La Fish”, such as Sicily’s famous swordfish, sardines and tuna. However, the feature of tonight’s tasting menu – attracting customers who range from local families to food connoisseurs – is a relative newcomer to these shores and to Sicilian tables: the Atlantic blue crab.Tommaso Salamone, left, says he opened his family’s fish shop and restaurant, La Fish, in Catania, to show blue crabs in a new light.

He says people in Catania can be “closed-minded” when it comes to trying unfamiliar ingredients such as the blue crab. “It’s possible people may think to themselves, ‘What is this?’ or say, ‘Oh no, I don’t like this.’” But he believes the taste will speak for itself and win over even the most sceptical diners. “That first bite does not lie.”

On a small wooden table, holding a large knife next to buckets filled with crustaceans and fish, is Rosario, a local fishmonger who has been selling blue crab for the past few months. “I sell it because people like it,” he says. Having started with just a few kilos of blue crab a day, he now averages sales of about 20 kilos daily.

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