Taylor Swift’s antique cushion cut engagement ring has prompted a huge spike in this diamond’s popularity. We break down everything to know about the old mine cut, from its qualities to setting choices for the stone.
Just a few years ago, the antique cushion cut diamond was not a stone on many people’s minds. Cut to Taylor Swift ’s engagement announcement, however, and everyone began asking their jewelers to source them this vintage, old mine diamond for their own proposals.
“They’re stones with history, individuality, and a kind of timeless beauty,” says jeweler Stephanie Gottlieb, who has designed pieces for Swift in the past. “Their recent rise in popularity shows where engagement ring trends are headed: toward charm and one-of-a-kind stones that separate someone's personal expression and style from the trends of recent years.” Curious about what makes an antique cushion cut so unique and how to best source one for your engagement ring? Read ahead for a full breakdown. Since antique cushion cut diamonds are vintage, hand-cut styles, they actually aren’t graded with the 4Cs by GIA—which often determines a diamond’s value. “This is where sourcing matters,” says Gottlieb. She advises couples on the search for an old mine engagement ring to work with a skilled jeweler to find the right stone: “You want someone who knows how to hunt, not just pull from a list. The difference between a good antique cushion and a great one is everything.” When looking through possible antique cushion cuts, the jeweler advises you to think about how the stone makes you feel rather than particular specs. “These stones are all about personality, so you want one that speaks to you visually,” she shares. “Look at the facet pattern, the shape, the way it catches light. Do you like a more elongated silhouette? Something softer and pillowy? There’s no ‘perfect’—just preference.” Proportions are everything when it comes to an old mine diamond, so it’s best to see a stone in person before purchasing to see how it reflects light. “Bottom line: you can’t buy antiques based on the paperwork alone. Always, always see it in motion. Antique stones come alive when they catch the light,” she adds. “Also, those larger facets don’t hide inclusions as easily, so you want to make sure anything inside the stone is eye-clean and not distracting.” Choosing a diamond is just the first step when designing an engagement ring. Next, you need to consider how it will appear in a setting. Some may gravitate towards an actual antique ring to carry their old mine stone, but many will reset them for longevity. “Antique cushions have so much personality and natural character, so the setting should enhance those qualities,” recommends Gottlieb. “For someone with more fashion-forward taste, a chunky gold setting offers modern juxtaposition and interest to a vintage stone. For someone who gravitates towards the classics, a clean, minimal solitaire setting allows the stone to really shine.” When searching for an antique cushion to purchase, it’s important to have patience. Unlike machine-cut diamonds, they are not mass-produced. “They’re definitely harder to find than modern cushions, especially the really good ones,” says Gottlieb. “Demand is up and supply is fixed, so the best stones move quickly.” Taylor Swift’s engagement ring launched a thousand “what is an antique cushion cut” Google searches. And it’s easy to see why. Her bezel-set ring, designed by Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry, highlights a large, elongated antique cushion cut stone that takes up major real estate on her finger. The thick gold band also features delicate engravings down the sides. We think this vintage old mine diamond ring is a perfect fit for the creative and nostalgic songwriter.
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