Resolutely of this moment, the designer’s first dedicated men’s collection was, undoubtedly, hardcore fashion, writes Alexander Fury
Of course, there’s precedent for that, within Saint Laurent’s own storied legacy. Yves Saint Laurent famously transposed classic items of menswear to a women’s wardrobe, so succinctly he gained a repute for being their originator. And, arguably, in a fashion sense he was: while Marlene Dietrich may have sported tuxedos in the 1930s, it was Saint Laurent who shifted them to womenswear three decades later, when women could still be refused entry to restaurants if they were wearing them.
Today, Vaccarello bounced those pieces from men, to women, and back again, leaving traces of both genders embedded in their forms. This menswear collection proposed plenty of sharp suiting, but also low-tugged slinky knit tunics, draped chiffons and velvets complete with calèche hoods, throwbacks to Vaccarello’s Septemberbut also, he said, to the house’s Autumn/Winter 1998 haute couture collection. “For me, my favourite couture,“ he stated.
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