Keiser Karl 🖤 Ahead of the metmuseum Costume Institute's Spring 2023 exhibition in honor of Lagerfeld, Andrew Bolton and LoicPrigent discuss the legacy of the infamous designer.
After completing the text to accompany the Met Costume Institute’s spring 2023, head curator Andrew Bolton called up his friend and collaborator, the famed fashion documentarian, at his home in Paris. Over the course of their 45-minute conversation, the duo opened up about their personal relationships with Karl, and why it’s his skills, not showmanship, that should dominate the discourse around the creative director’s legacy.LOÏC PRIGENT: Bonjour.
BOLTON: There was a quote I came across recently, and it reinforced the conversation that we had in New York, where you were talking about how his drawings were like secret messages to his premieres [patternmakers]. A lot of designers use sketching as a critical process, not as an end in itself. Whereas what Karl ends up with is both a technical drawing and an expressionistic drawing at the same time.
BOLTON: Yes. Well, the whole show really was inspired by the videos I saw of yours at the memorial service. The soul of that event was your videos of Karl talking to the premieres. Subsequently, I saw your video of Karl sketching, which I found so moving. It’s like a modernist brushstroke.
BOLTON: He would be there with the toile, and instead of just touching it and saying, “Two millimeters here,” he would take his pen and paper and sketch it. I knew that Karl sketched and that it was part of his creative process, but I didn’t realize the extent that it was his primary mode of communication with his premieres. That’s what your film taught me, and that’s what we follow in the exhibition.
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