The disruption to supplies of grain from Ukraine has captured global attention and sent food prices soaring. But the production of other foodstuffs has also been hit. Before Russia invaded Ukrainians were producing snails and other products for export.
“I stayed to protect our farm and home,” she said. “If I hadn’t done it, nothing would have been left.”
In France, where snails are eaten piping hot with oozing garlic butter or mixed into pates, importers had noticed Ukrainian snails making inroads into the market. Exports to the European Union of raw Ukrainian snails more than doubled between 2017 and 2021, from 347 tons to 844 tons. “But this number could be underestimated,” said Pierre Commere of the French agro-industry group Adepale. “For several years now there has been a long-running crisis in the snail industry. It has become more and more difficult to find snails and prices are rising.”
During the Russian occupation of her village, Avramenko found another calling: taking her mind off the war by dreaming up new recipes for snails when peace returned. Her son, luckily, was not in Veresnya when the Russian invasion started on Feb. 24 and he couldn’t immediately get back. But Russian soldiers didn’t seem interested in their snails. They did come searching for fuel, smashing a window and asking Avramenko for her keys.Russian forces pulled out of Veresnya at the end of March, part of
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