Meet some of the unsung makers of American fashion who are finally getting their due at the Met in “In America: An Anthology of Fashion”
In 1948, in honor of her 25th anniversary in fashion, Madame Eta created a collection in shades of gray.Born in Hungary and trained there at the Royal Academy of Applied Arts, Hentz emigrated to New York in the 1920s. According to a 1945 article in the“good fortune just literally dropped itself into her lap, and before the first year was ended in a new world, she was on her way back to Europe as a reviewer of the Paris showings and already established as an American fashion expert.
“Miss Elizabeth Hawes, a well-known American modiste, is pictured on the S.S. Acquitania on her return here from France. Miss Hawes was literally barred from that country”—the original caption erroneously reports; the collection was not reviewed, but it was shown—“where she had attempted to compete with French style-makers. She is the first American girl to attempt to introduce American styles in France.
“Washable dinner dresses, cool as a breeze, for summer twilights.. The girl on the stairs wears a dress of tucked white muslin, as innocent as an infant’s, trimmed with entre-deux and tiny pearl buttons; Elizabeth Hawes.”Born in New Jersey, Hawes came to fashion early. After graduating from Vassar, she studied design, but wrote that she got more out of her hand-on work for Bergdorf Goodman, though she gave that up too to move to Paris.
The son of a Scots Irish father and Cherokee mother, New spent his early childhood on the family farm in Oklahoma; from seven he lived mostly with his sister near Tulsa. After graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago, he got a job teaching with the Bureau of Indian Affairs, before serving with the Navy in the Second World War.
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