Alexander McQueen's quiet beauty. The devil is always in the detail for Sarah Burton. See more:
show, it quickly became clear that this was about meditative escape -- the fashion equivalent of ASMR. Sarah Burton said her latest collection was about time, the slowing down of it, and what it can produce. “There is so much noise in the world,” she said after the show, her pin cushion still around her wrist.
Such an organic approach to research, localised production and fabric sourcing is why Alexander McQueen alwaysso breathtakingly beautiful. You can tell that it is made with love, feel the emotion stitched into every seam and the beauty in every carefully considered detail. Whereas once a McQueen show was a byword for a kind of dark theatricality, today it is a showcase of the most intricate forms of craftsmanship. Sarah’s passion is seeking out the beauty of tradition and celebrating its magic.
Stella Tennant’s linen dress, for instance, stemmed from one of the life drawing workshops that Julie Verhoeven hosted for Central Saint Martins students at the Alexander McQueen flagship on Bond Street in London -- which is part-boutique, part-educational institution.
There was plenty of the powerful tailoring with cinched waists. One suit was backless, spliced towards the waist and made from British mohair sharkskin, a worsted wool from mills in the north of England. Others were edged in delicate lace or sculptural in tough-luxe leather. There were romantic leg-of-mutton sleeves -- also worn by the London Contemporary Orchestra, which performed during the show -- and ivory silk dresses embroidered with endangered flowers.
If there’s a sense of familiarity, it is because Sarah reused patterns and upcycled materials from previous collections, both by herself and McQueen. As fashion consumption reaches fever pitch and the industry is forced to evaluate its environmental impact, that’s a powerful sentiment. We don’t always need a creative U-turn. It could well be something locally produced from organic materials. As for the look, if it isn’t broken... This show was more than just perfect.
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