Want to enjoy a glass of wine without the hangover? The buzz-free movement is gaining traction, with brands like Aaron Trotman's Non and Murray Paterson's Mury leading the charge. Sip your way to satisfaction without the alcohol.
, left Trotman inspired—not just gastronomically but entrepreneurially. He was particularly taken with the clarified apple juice infused with marigold leaves and mountain pepper, served with a crayfish dish, and by the bracing iced green tea with fresh lemon that arrived with dessert. “Suddenly it dawned on me,” he recalls of his eureka moment.
Soon he was spending 16-hour days in the kitchen, working with a chef friend to develop his own faux wines, signature blends as complex as the real thing. The pair experimented with a wide range of ingredients. They did a cold extraction of raspberries, dehydrated oranges and stewed cherries and tried teas and spices as well as salt from Australia’s Murray River.
“We built flavor by striking a balance between the fruit, tannins, salinity and acid found in the world’s best wines,” says Trotman. , with three alt-wines in 2019, several competitors have followed him to market. The category is still so new for these non-wine “wines” that no classifying name has yet stuck.
“We didn’t want people [abstaining from alcohol] to feel ‘less than,’ ” says Allen Hemberger, of the Alinea restaurant group, who is coauthor, with his wife, Sarah, of. “We wanted them to have the same awesome experience that everyone else has, make them feel cared for in a bespoke way.” A cultural shift is also underway. With a healthier lifestyle trending these days, even serious oenophiles are sometimes making alcohol-free choices. A recent study found that among consumers of low- and no-alcohol beverages, 78 percent also drink alcohol. And Dry January, which began in 2013 in the UK with 4,000 people giving up booze for the month, is now a full-fledged global phenomenon. Meanwhile, Gen Z is imbibing 20 percent less than its millennial peers.
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