Watching Pieter Mulier’s fall Alaia show made a stupendous emotional and intellectual impact. As his women walked across the mirrored floor of the Paris boutique, their spiraling, sculptural clothes sent a shiver of surprise around the room. You saw a progression of astonishingly innovative techniques, drapes, and silhouettes aligning. The female body and a sophisticated mentality were being connected in a way that felt like a class apart.
It seems odd to describe something as technically exceptional and mathematically mind-blowing as this collection as “simple,” but you understood what he was getting at. It takes a kind of genius to go so deeply into experimental territory and not lose sight of what they’re saying with it. “It’s moving on. I mean, we did va-va-voom for two-and-a-half years, and I still love it, but it’s not the moment where the world is now,” Mulier said.
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