Something raw, authentic, and new is happening in Danish fashion.
Visitors to Kastrup Airport used to be greeted by a neon sign that read “Welcome to Wonderful Copenhagen.” The Danish capital is indeed a magical place, but it’s one that, like Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales, combines light and darkness.
Before getting into the nitty-gritty, some context. It’s important to note that the Nordic fashion scene is relatively young, and that it has always reflected the democratic values of the region , and is expressed through a focus on accessibility and functionality. A certain pragmatism or contained fantasy is necessary to design clothes that have to work on bikes, after all.
As Nordic cultures can tend toward the conformist, this chafing against the established order of things seems more significant than it might in a larger capital. “You can really feel the energy of the youth here in Copenhagen,” Thorsmark said. “I don’t know if it’s a global trend, but there’s this very firm confidence, almost rebellion, but somehow in a very uplifting way, here.”
Nielsen has a hit on his hands with some rad sunglasses that he can’t keep in stock. These, more than the jewelry, seem to have the “raw” quality I have been reacting to, though it’s a designation the designer rejects. “This ‘vibe shift’ you’re observing,” he writes in an email. “is to me a very natural sign of the times, welcoming a new generation and their aesthetics that has been developing for many years, but perhaps is truly flourishing now.
Nielsen describes himself as having a “dark soul,” but don’t confuse that with gloomy. The designer translates inspirations that include American skate style and punk into looks that are “very sleek and slim” and, he stresses, meant for everybody. Nielsen works out his ideas and emotions materially and manually, draping on a form and developing patterns later, which gives his work a personal, and sometimes crafty, feeling. “We strive to make stuff that is really well made.
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