The culinary culture of this Balkan country is seasonal and steeped in tradition.
Sitting on the Balkan Peninsula of southeast Europe, North Macedonia is fairly self-contained and self-sufficient — meaning it’s steeped in local food traditions. Agriculture weaves through society, and markets heave with independent farmers displaying rich cheeses, juicy olives, fresh fruit and veg and much more. By the side of the road, men sit on upturned beer crates selling plastic bottles of homemade rakija or dried herbs from the fields surrounding their homes.
Summer in North Macedonia is scorching hot, while winter is a time of snowfall, and we eat with the seasons — salty grilled meats and sweet tomato salads in the warm months and stews to get us through the cold. Then, there are almost mystical moments in the culinary calendar, such as making huge batches of yufki at the end of August to allow them to dry naturally in the sun. Or ritual preserving, which sees the whole family capture the end of the harvest in September.
Many food traditions come from the 70% of the population who observe the Orthodox calendar, but the strongest current that defines how we eat and feed is the notion of hospitality. When calling on someone, you’re given slatko to sweeten your visit, and even if you’re just popping in for a coffee you’ll probably end up staying for dinner.
Eating out is defined by kafanas , of which there are more than 5,000 in a country with a population of only two million. The obsession with these all-day, all-welcome establishments is representative of how we like to eat: at a slow pace, enjoying each morsel. We start with a shot of something strong, some salad and a gossip. And each person who joins the table throughout the day or night orders something new, meaning the plates are always full.
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