A Taiwanese food crawl in the East Village with NYC writer Cathy Erway

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A Taiwanese food crawl in the East Village with NYC writer Cathy Erway
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Where to get great beef noodle soup, dumplings, boba and more.

One of my first times eating Taiwanese food was at Win Son, a Taiwanese American restaurant near my apartment in Brooklyn. The food was fun and playful: Big bowls of sesame noodles, pan-griddled pork buns and fried eggplant enticed me to delve into the cuisine more deeply.

Now, before you ask: No, we didn’t get Ho’s beef noodle soup. I was saving that for another spot on our food tour . We ordered a breakfast set for two, which included sweet and savory soy milk, a scallion pancake rolled up with scrambled egg, youtiao, fan tuan , and a turnip cake.We broke off pieces of the youtiao and dipped it in the sweet soy milk, which we got hot. The youtiao was crisp and the soy milk was sweet, but not overly so. Erway compared the meal to having coffee and a doughnut.The light Taiwanese breakfast at Ho Foods felt incredibly special, fun and filling.

The signature dumplings are based on their mom’s original recipe. Growing up, the sisters always had their mom’s homemade dumplings for lunch and snacks. Their mom used their neighbor’s zucchini in the dumplings as a way to feed them more vegetables. When the sisters were away at college, their mom always kept their freezers stocked with frozen dumplings.The combination was something I had never had before in a dumpling and I was surprised by how much I loved it.

886's website describes its food as “authentically inauthentic.” Sze is constantly tinkering with and innovating the recipes at his restaurants.

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