A Southern oasis is blooming in downtown L.A.

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A Southern oasis is blooming in downtown L.A.
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Southern chef Sammy Monsour returns to downtown at Joyce, where he channels his imagination toward seafood and other coastal-inspired dishes.

“Sacred” wouldn’t be too strong a word to describe the stature of one-pot rice dishes among the culinary traditions of the coastal American South. Their names — red rice, dirty rice, bog, jambalaya, hoppin’ John, perloo — speak as much to regional vernacular as they do to textural distinctions or time-honored combinations of meat, seafood or legumes.

Woven dining chairs and wicker chandeliers that cast orange light give the room a genteel air. Notice the trio of mounted portraits, by local artist Shannon Scates, depicting a woman in different ages and fashion eras of her life. That’s the restaurant’s namesake and the mother of Prince Riley, who founded Joyce with his wife, Athena Riley.

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