“Yes, Ego’s office is shaped like a coffin and he says things like, “I love food. If I don’t love it; I don’t swallow.” But the critic, alongside criticism as an institution, actually ends up being a savior in the film.” — qualityrye
Getting called Ego isn’t an insult — it’s a compliment.Anton Ego falls right into the villain-critic cliche, voiced by Peter O’Toole as if he was playing a devious funeral home director and drawn as if the animators put Loki’s head in a vice and aged him 40 years. Ego’s linguistic depredations commence with the lethality of a dagger: His initial brutal review of Gusteau’s is followed by the death of that venue’s chef .
I’m tempted to disagree with the question of thriving on negative criticism and risking very little — guess we critics have to settle those questions ourselves outside our local omakase joint after a few $27 cocktails — but it’s worth pausing here for a different reason. Some folks, including at least one big-deal tasting menu restaurant that tried to dismiss my writeup using the words of Ego, like to stop right here and leave out the rest when quoting the speech.
They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau’s famous motto, “Anyone can cook.” But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist; but a great artist. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau’s, who is, in this critic’s opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau’s soon, hungry for more.
Good criticism, in other words, isn’t just a space to absorb someone else’s judgements or to make an economic decision based on those edicts. Criticism is where we go to learn. Or at least that’s whatknow what ‘critic’ means. They think it means, ‘a person who criticizes,’” the late Roger Ebert wrote in his own 2008, highlighting some of the bigger goals of reviewing beyond the type of superlative-laden service writing that ends up getting cut-and-pasted onto theater marquees .
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