Chefs across the country are celebrating the diverse, delicious landscape of Filipino food.
These articles were a source of exasperation for many Filipino chefs. For one thing, the version of Filipino cuisine that people like Zimmern and Bourdain proclaimed would be the next big thing was an incomplete picture of the culture, says chef Paolo Dungca, co-owner of Pogiboy. "For a long time, Filipino food was generalized as one of thosefoods—it was only balut [a delicacy of fertilized duck egg] and other funkier dishes being highlighted," he explains.
In the past few years, in cities all over America, there has been an explosion of standout Filipino restaurants led by proudly Filipino chefs. Many Filipino chefs today credit Cendrillon with being the birthplace of modern Filipino American cooking in the United States. Cendrillon wasn't a casual spot where you pointed at dishes in steam pans. Dorotan put innovative and boundary-pushing Filipino dishes on the menu, like quail and rabbit adobo and a ginger and lemongrass crème brûlée. It was also home to a serious wine list, and the menu wasn't exactly cheap.
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