At Koloman, a cocktail mixing rum, coffee, and a spray of flames.
Meg Lazar prepares a Trummer, which pays tribute to the bar world’s most famous firestarter.Meg Lazar prepares a Trummer, which pays tribute to the bar world’s most famous firestarter.Meg Lazar prepares a Trummer, which pays tribute to the bar world’s most famous firestarter.Fifteen years after the Penicillin and the Benton’s Old-Fashioned appeared on the city’s cocktail menus, drink names can still feel like a secret code.
“Um,” I said to Meg Lazar, the head bartender, as I looked up from the menu one recent night, “is this drink set on fire?”The Trummer is named for Albert Trummer, the Austrian-born bartender whom fans know as an early leading light of the city’s cocktail revival, spearheading the drink programs at aughts-era favorites like Danube and Town. Other people might know Trummer’s name because he tended to make headlines.
The impetus for the Trummer cocktail at Koloman was Lazar’s. “The initial idea came from me wanting to put a Spanish coffee on the menu,” she says. Spanish coffee is an old-school form of flaming cocktail, where the fiery show is brought about by a combination of overproof liquor and healthy showers of cinnamon. It can get messy. “The bar gets perpetually covered in cinnamon,” Lazar says. “I wanted to make a Spanish coffee that wasn’t a mess.
Her fix involves a mister, which she uses to spray 160-proof Austrian rum into a glass that’s rimmed with cinnamon and sugar. Then she lights the fire, spraying more rum to amplify the flames — which are controlled but soaring — and rotating the glass to caramelize the cinnamon-sugar.
After she demonstrated the drink to chef Glocker and beverage director Katja Scharnagl — both from Austria — they had the same thought. “‘We have to call it Trummer,’” Scharnagl recalls saying. “‘There is no other way.’”
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