These much-loved and original vestiges of comfort food are everywhere in this historic Polish city.
If there is one good thing to have come out of the communist era in Poland in 1993, aside, that is, from the communists finally coming out of Poland in 1993, it is to be found in two words, “bar” and “mleczny”. In English, they translate, rather puzzingly, as “milk bar”.Yet these milk bars are not milk bars as we know them in Australia, as I’ll soon discover here in the Polish port city of Gdansk, and you’ll be rather disappointed if you rock up and demand a milkshake at one.
Thanks largely to today’s post-communist, democratically-elected Polish government, many of these utterly unpretentious gastronomic relics of Poland’s turbulent and tragic past, have been retained and subsidised. They were meticulously rebuilt, using only old architectural plans and monochrome photographs for reference, after the city was virtually destroyed by wartime bombing raids.
I order a main dish consisting of a pair of plump and tender chicken dumplings served in a light white sauce with rice and carrots along with a refreshing and summery cucumber and dill salad side. Pleasingly, there’s time to visit another milk bar for lunch again the next day as we have an unplanned and bonus day in Gdansk after a visit to the Swedish port city of Karlskrona is cancelled due to bad weather.Elsewhere, about halfway along Dluga Street there is Bar Neptun, named after Neptune’s Fountain, the historic mannerist-rococo water feature below to the imposing Gothic Renaissance Town Hall which houses a worthwhile museum.
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