A life’s work: Celebrating the glories of Latin American home cooking

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A life’s work: Celebrating the glories of Latin American home cooking
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In her masterwork “Latinísimo,” Sandra Gutierrez honors the diverse but connected home cooking of the 21 countries of Latin America.

Sandra Gutierrez chops vegetables from her garden in Cary, N.C., for a bean salad. CARY, N.C. — “I literally broke my neck while writing this book,” Sandra Gutierrez says while serving me from a basket of pupusas she just made on her griddle. The cooking instructor, food historian and cookbook author’s latest book, ““I had this terrible pain in my neck the week after we finished our photo shoot. This was the spring of 2021.

Shortly thereafter, he started his own practice in Guatemala City, which he ran until his death in 2017. He also founded the School of Dentistry — “one of the most respected dental schools in the world,” Gutierrez says — at the Universidad Francisco Marroquín with a group of friends and colleagues. Gutierrez spent many weekends with her grandmother, Roksanda Serovic de Prem, whose estate, which still stands at the edge of Guatemala City, encompassed an organic farm full of fruits, vegetables, cattle, poultry and pigs. “Long before entertaining became a trend, [de Prem] was famous for her parties , showstopping tablescapes, and majestic flower arrangements,” Gutierrez writes. “We never knew how many people would be there. But my grandmother always fed everyone well.

Meanwhile, Gutierrez’s influence continued to expand. Her first tortilla press was exhibited at the Smithsonian’s Anacostia Community Museum in 2016. Her comal is part of the permanentIn 2017, she decided to put her ideas for a comprehensive book about Latin American cuisine on paper. She began traveling to Latin America, visiting libraries and universities with cookbook collections, speaking with family friends and approaching home cooks at grocery stores and markets.

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