“The history of American home cooking is measured in unruly women who win book contracts,” Helen Rosner wrote, in 2019, in an ode to the cookbook author Sheila Lukins.
”—and all the big, big, big ideas that you put into action after the “Silver Palate” era ended, after you sold the little shop in Manhattan where it all began, after you and Julee split up, the Simon and Garfunkel of the spice aisle. There was such fanfare when you reunited, briefly, for the “”—“Yes, Chicken Marbella in full color!”—the two of you back together, still crazy after all these years.
When you died, in 2009, it was the first time I experienced public mourning for a person I had known privately. I didn’t know how to grieve. I had moved on from book publishing and was making a go as a writer, sort of, and someone who knew that I’d known you asked me to write an obituary. I couldn’t; I didn’t deserve to. I wouldn’t pretend that we were close—to you, I was probably the thousandth in an endless string of young editorial assistants.
is a staff writer at The New Yorker. In 2016, she won the James Beard award for personal-essay writing.
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