Helen Rosner reviews the Palestinian restaurants Al-Basha, Al-Basha Quick Serve, and Al-Basha Sweets, in Paterson, New Jersey.
Twenty-five years ago, when Yaser Baker opened Al-Basha, it was the first restaurant in Paterson to identify itself specifically as Palestinian, in an area that’s now so dense with Palestinian livelihood that it’s known as Little Ramallah. Baker was born in Ramallah, trained in professional kitchens in Jericho, and spent more than a decade cooking American and Italian food before returning to the cuisine of his heritage.
The main courses, a selection of mashawi , arrive at the table looking like something out of a still-life flaunting the pleasures of abundance: kofte and tiny lamb chops and slices of beef shawarma heaped atop sheets of markook , delivered not on platters but on planks of glossy wood, alongside jewellike grilled tomatoes and peppers and piles of sliced purple onion dressed in parsley. Meals like these are meant to be lingered over, with as many people as possible.
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