As they are for many Southerners, biscuits are in chef and food writer Erika Council’s blood.
If you ask pretty much anyone who grew up in the American South how they feel about biscuits, a stream of effervescent praise will likely follow. Biscuits are a staple of Southern cuisine, one that chef and food writer Erika Council has built a career around as the owner of Atlanta’s popular, where crowds line up to order Council’s fluffy buttermilk biscuits laden with country ham, pimento cheese, and fried chicken.
As they are for many Southerners, biscuits are in Council’s blood. She grew up in a family of renowned cooks and restaurateurs, and is the granddaughter of Southern food icon Mildred “Mama Dip” Council, whose North Carolina restaurant Mama Dip’s Kitchen has been serving comfort food since 1976. “I didn’t realize how iconic she was, I just always was around people who could really cook when I was growing up,” Council says.
As an adult, Council had no desire to join with the family business. She studied software engineering and worked in that industry for nearly two decades before deciding to start her food blog, Southern Souffle, as a hobby. Shortly after the blog began to take off, a friend in Georgia asked Council if she’d like to serve breakfast at his barbecue restaurant. She agreed, and prepared to serve biscuit sandwiches to “maybe 50 or 60 people,” she says.
Council started taking on corporate and catering clients, driving all over Atlanta and its surrounding areas delivering biscuits. All the while, she was tinkering with new recipes, figuring out ways to make her biscuits really stand out. “I just wanted to be the winner,” she says. “You know how there are people who everybody wants to go to their house because they make the best biscuits or the best fried chicken or the best potato salad? I want to be that person for biscuits.
Council notes that these biscuits are a little more savory than the standard biscuit recipe, making them perfect for breakfast sandwiches and slathering with sausage gravy. When she really wants to kick things up a notch, she uses a pastry brush to spread Duke’s over the top of the biscuits before sticking them in the oven. “It makes the tops tangy,” she says. “If you’ve got a really good tomato, and some more Duke’s mayonnaise, and a little bit of cracked black pepper? That’s all you need.
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