A trip through Taliban-ruled Afghanistan reveals profound change coexisting with remnants of the fallen republic, for now
KABUL—Clad in body armor and helmets, Uzbekistan’s border guards took positions in the middle of the bridge spanning the wide Amu Darya river on Monday morning, examining the papers of a handful of Afghans coming their way. Beyond them, the Taliban’s new Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan began.
A small minivan, carrying me and three Afghan men heading home, pulled up by the customs office on the Afghan side of the river. A white Taliban flag flew above the compound. The Uzbek driver shook his head, puzzled about why anyone would go back to Afghanistan, and took off after collecting his $5 payments.
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