A 'delightful' dish James Beard cooked for himself when he was alone.
, on American cook and food writer James Beard. Birdsall and I are both self-quarantined, in San Francisco and New York City respectively. I’ve just reached out to him because I’m writing about Beard’s asparagus, and I figured, as someone who’s just written the man’s biography, Birdsall might have something to say about it.
The second preparation piques my interest most—especially these days, as I’m cooking for myself more than ever and looking for inspiration anywhere I can. Tonight, this asparagus feels not only doable, but stupidly simple. Surely just butter and soy sauce couldn’t possibly make anything taste that good ... right?Photo by Julia Gartland. Food Stylist: Samantha Seneviratne. Prop Stylist: Sophie Strangio.
“The soy sauce must come from Jue-Let’s influence,” I write to Birdsall, referring to the Canton-born chef who worked alongside Beard’s mother and served as a surrogate father figure for the lonely boy. As I eat my buttery, soy sauce–slicked asparagus with a side of leftover white rice, I’m surprised at how something so simple could taste so complete, so nourishing. Though Birdsall is able to confirm that Beard’s wording does indeed most likely mean No. 2, there’s something pleasurable about eating various shapes of the same vegetable, all with slightly different textures. As for the sauce, I feel silly for not having come up with the combination myself: butter and soy sauce. That’s it.
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