A Dermatologist Explains What a Retinoid Can—and Can't—Do to Treat Acne Scars

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A Dermatologist Explains What a Retinoid Can—and Can't—Do to Treat Acne Scars
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Can a Retinoid Help Treat Acne Scars? Experts Explain

Skincare is powerful—but it’s not magical. A caffeine-packed eye cream will brighten; it won’t make dark circles disappear. A lip plumper will make your pout appear bigger; it doesn’t take the place of filler. And when it comes tohelp; but they probably won’t make them disappear.

That in mind, there are still plenty of benefits to adding a retinoid into your routine. They can speed up the rate of cell turnover, which can actually reduce the likelihood that you’ll end up with a scar in the first place. To get the full rundown on what retinoids can—and can’t—do for your scarring, keep reading. One of the biggest misconceptions out there is that post-inflammatory, which is the *temporary* mark left behind by a pimple is the same as a scar.

When this kind of trauma happens, your skin will create either a raised or depressed scar. “Acne scars can be separated into atrophic or hypertrophic types,” he adds. “Atrophic scars may further be classified as ice-pick, rolling, or boxcar scars depending on their depth and width.” A retinoid’s main job is to speed up cell turnover, which in turn can reduce the likelihood of acne, and to build more collagen in the skin.

What retinoids can do? Dramatically speed up the rate at which your post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation fades—and serve as a crucial component in the treatment of active acne. “Retinoid medications help the skin turn over more quickly which can help to carry away unwanted pigment in the upper layers of skin,” says Dr. Portela. I won’t get into the nitty-gritty, but not all retinoids are created equal.

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