For cookbook author Laila El-Haddad, sumagiyya, the Gazan stew that was a specialty of her late aunt, has taken on new meaning.
Though I’ve lived abroad most of my life, Gaza is where I call home. It's where my parents were born and raised and where I spent summers as a child. Whenever we’d return, we’d be welcomed back by our large extended family. First among them was my aunt An’am Dalloul, whom we called Khalto Um Hani: “mother of Hani,” her eldest child and my cousin.
Recipes were a sort of treasure map to a largely invisible, or invisibilized, world of Palestinian history going back well before the 1948 Nakba, the year Palestinians refer to as their “catastrophe,” or mass expulsion and dispossession. After finishing college in North Carolina, I followed that map to Gaza, where I lived, worked, and raised my firstborn. It was there that I realized my hands-on culinary education from Um Hani wasn’t unique to me but rather quintessentially Palestinian.
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