Senegal-born chef Pierre Thiam marries his memories of feasting during Tamxarit—the Muslim New Year—with the Thanksgiving traditions of his new home, New York.
Eat as much as you possibly can. Gorge. Help yourself to another plate of turkey. Pack in that extra slice of pie.That way, you'll weigh so much, the Angel of Death won't be able to lift you away at the end of the night!, the Muslim New Year: Of all the holidays in my native Senegal, it's the one that reminds me the most of Thanksgiving. As a kid, I remember thanking God that my mom's food was delicious, otherwise I'd have had to force it down anyway.
For example, instead of a plain butternut squash soup, I add Scotch bonnet peppers for heat to make a riff on a popular West African chile chowder called pepe soup. There are as many pepe soup recipes as there are regions in West Africa, but wherever you go, the soup is believed to prevent hangovers. You'll see people selling steaming bowls on the streets in West Africa at nighttime near nightclubs and bars. It's nice to have a little bowl at Thanksgiving, just in case.
Right before people come over—there's usually 25 in all, family and friends from Africa, Europe, the States, many of whom don't have family here in New York—I pop theWe have this belief in Senegal that you have to share food with whoever visits, because then your bowl will always be full. By sharing our food, we say, you bring a blessing.
I live in Brooklyn. If you find yourself near, stop by. We'll eat until we burst—even though there's no angel lurking, waiting to snatch us away at the end of the night.The flavors of Senegal—sour tamarind, fiery scotch bonnets, and pungent fish sauce—add umami-rich depth to this unexpected Thanksgiving bird.
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