3 riffable baking recipes from cult-favorite baker Dominique Ansel.
Growing up with few resources left my family scrambling to put food on the table. We were a household of six—my parents, my three siblings, and my grandmother, plus all our cats and dogs—living solely off my dad’s factory-worker salary. In France, salaries were paid out on a monthly basis, and without proper budgeting, we’d often be out of money for food toward the end of the month. The thing is, when you have only a little, you learn to do a lot with it.
This was especially true of food. It was mesmerizing to watch my mom pull together dinner each night. On the first night, she would slow roast a whole chicken over diced root vegetables. The next night, she would pick off whatever meat was left on the chicken carcass and toss it with pasta, adding the leftover roasted potatoes and carrots from the night before.
On my first day of culinary school, I realized the opposite was true. Opening up the pastry walk-in freezer, I realized that almost nothing was ever thrown away. Each ingredient was wrapped tightly, labeled with the date and ingredient name with a Sharpie on kitchen masking tape, and stacked on sheet trays. All the purées were on one side, finished items and ice cream on the other side, and the prep in the middle.
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