27-year-old chef turns old-school SF space into millennial pink bakery

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27-year-old chef turns old-school SF space into millennial pink bakery
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Butter & Crumble, a popular cake and croissant pop-up that was born during the pandemic, is coming to SF’s North Beach.

When Sophia Smith started baking buttercream layer cakes for her family and friends during the pandemic, she never expected to launch a business. Now, her North Beach bakery is one of the most highly anticipated openings of the year. Back when she was a 23-year-old recent graduate of culinary school, Smith was working as a line cook at A16 Pizza in San Francisco. Then, March 2020 hit, and the restaurant shut down.

“I have always loved laminated pastry, and I’ve always been really intimidated by that process, and just thought there would be no other time in my career to drop everything and chase that dream,” she said. Two months turned into three when she decided to stay in Paris for an internship at Boulangerie Baptiste, a bakery run by celebrated French chef Joël Defives. Smith didn’t speak any French, and Defives didn’t speak English, so they communicated mostly through hand signals, she said.

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