Our annual guide to L.A.'s best restaurants returns on Dec. 6. Critic Bill Addison discusses the daunting process of compiling the list.
used to compile Top 40 roundups — but few in the country were written with such scope by a single authority with immersive expertise.
“Essential” also feel like the better guiding philosophy to me. “Best” was adopted with the inauguration of the 101. It’s a more searchable word; I respect the way of things and hope the truest intent of the guide comes through in the reading. The assignment is one of immense privilege, and also an agony to deliberate and finalize. We are still in a pandemic, and yet with dining back in full swing — and snagging reservations for restaurants of all kinds feeling like something between a competition, a skirmish and blind luck — the number of slots felt more insufficient to me than ever. I was at dinner with one of my colleagues last night.
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