Tribune food critic nickdk sets out to find the best burritos in Chicago just in time for NationalBurritoDay.
Most people don’t think about the burrito. The brute cousin to the taco simply exists, and any consideration pertains to size. Who cares about the particulars when the quantity means more than the quality? A burrito bigger than your head certainly bests a wimpy, meager one, right?
The burrito many of us recognize comes bulked to the brim with meat, beans, rice, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, salsa, guacamole and sour cream. Sometimes referred to as a Mission burrito, after the Mission District in San Francisco where the style supposedly originated or, at the very least, was popularized. This is also the style you’ll find at your local Chipotle outlet. But the burrito began life as something much simpler.
This is called a Durango-style burrito, named after the northern Mexican state of Durango. It didn’t take me long to realize there were tons of Durango-style restaurants in Chicago, each making burritos vastly superior to most of the bulging grease-filled packages you’ll find. I gleaned some serious knowledge over the course of my feasting. Rice is almost always a bad idea, because it dilutes the flavor of each bite, adding nothing but empty carbs. And while romaine lettuce adds crunch, iceberg lettuce usually just steams into an unsightly mush. I believe in the superiority of refried beans over whole beans. The former adds both a creaminess and some much needed stability to each bite.
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